Why we chose the Bilbao to Portsmouth ferry over Calais-Dover
So here’s the thing, we usually do the classic Calais-Dover hop when we’re travelling back to the UK. It’s fast, familiar, and over before you’ve even finished your croissant (or thereabouts). But this time was slightly different. It was late November. We were already cold in Spain. And the thought of heading further north — into a frostier France — had about as much appeal as a cold-water dip in January.
We didn’t want to waste the last of Spain’s warmth on a mad motorway dash, so we booked the direct Bilbao to Portsmouth ferry route. One smooth(ish) crossing and bam — back in the UK. No overnight stops. No tolls. No overpriced motorway service sandwiches. Bliss… in theory.
It was expensive (£526.50 for the three of us and the van) but we justified it by the fuel and sanity we’d save. Plus, it gave us a few more days basking in Spanish sunshine before swapping sandals and shorts for thick winter coats.
Bilbao ferry port: it’s actually in Zierbena!
Surprise! The ferry port isn’t in Bilbao. It’s in Zierbena, about 20 minutes away. Luckily, we put it into Google Maps beforehand and realised… otherwise we’d have ended up in the centre of Bilbao confused and stressed about trying to get out again (you may laugh, but this is not the first time this has happened to us!).
Boarding the ferry: what to expect
Boarding was a process. We hit two Spanish passport checks: the first to check your documents and assign you a lane, the second to give you the official stamp and wave you on. We got on at 6:28 p.m. — just three minutes before the 6:31 departure. Peak drama.
Getting into our cabin involved scanning the barcode on the boarding pass — not abundantly clear and we got in more by fluke than any brain cells operating. We spent a full 5 minutes outside like baffled rabbits.
Inside our 4-berth ensuite cabin on the Bilbao to Portsmouth ferry
We were on the Santona ferry which I believe is one of the newer ones. I think the other ferry that operates on this route is the Galicia, so not sure if they’re exactly the same or have some slight differences. We booked an inside 4-berth ensuite cabin — which sounds fancy, until you realise they mean four adult-sized single bunks and zero toddler solutions.
Little Rick, being in that magical age where a fall from a bunk bed = full cartoon-level chaos, couldn’t safely have one to himself. And the cots you can pre-book are only suitable for under-2s. So… I shared one single bed with Little Rick (bless his wriggly heart), and Mr Rick took the other. The remaining two beds stayed folded up, out of spite.
That said, the cabin itself was great: towels, toilet, sink, shower, and a glorious mix of British, European, and USB sockets — a plug-socket jackpot. Plus a TV, which neither of us were expecting.
Surviving the Bay of Biscay: the roughest ferry crossing in Europe
We’d heard the notoriously rough Bay of Biscay crossing might be a bit choppy.
Hahahaha.
Nope.
It was Level 3 on the ship’s “how rough is this sea” graphic, which maxes out at 3. So yes, the worst it gets. Apparently, this route is infamous for sea drama, and we got the full production. Waves. Swaying. Moaning walls. Existential dread.
Mr Rick was violently seasick. I lay in bed, an anti-sickness lollipop clenched in one hand and a bottle of water in the other, trying to keep my organs inside my body. We only ventured out once — for coffee — then retreated like sickly vampires back to the darkness.
Family travel: seasickness survival tips for ferry trips
Somehow, Little Rick was completely unfazed. No sickness. No falling over. Just polite snack requests and an unhealthy obsession with a ‘Bing’ puzzle he’d conned us into buying pre-embarkment. He slept through most of it, and when awake, remained absolutely delighted with life. It’s not easy being the only seaworthy member of the family, but he wore that crown with grace.
In a moment of naive optimism, we tried to watch Fast X.
I do not recommend watching a film full of explosions, wild car stunts, and emotional betrayal while on a violently swaying ship. Especially when the film forgets to include an ending. We used our last drops of energy to watch it… and for what? Vin Diesel mumbling about family? WHERE IS THE CONCLUSION, VIN?
Despite the chaos, we spotted Christmas trees onboard — the first festive thing we’d seen all season. Something about tinsel and pretty lights really lifted our spirits. For a second. Before the room started spinning again.
Arrival in Portsmouth: quick passport control and van check
Disembarking at Portsmouth ferry port after the Bilbao crossing was smooth. We rolled off, got through passport control quickly, and were only mildly interrogated when they asked to look in the back of the van. Apparently, we had “suspicious cheese mule” energy.
Top tips for booking and traveling on the Bilbao to Portsmouth ferry
- Travel is only available on a Tuesday or Saturday so be sure to factor that into your travel plans. You can check the latest sailing times directly on the Brittany Ferries website
- Book early — there aren’t many sailings and I imagine cabins sell out in peak season
- Be very early for check-in — trust us
- Anti-sickness tablets — we visited a Spanish pharmacy beforehand and thankfully took their advice in getting both tablets and anti-sickness lollipops (not sure where I would have been without the latter!)
- Pack food — don’t rely on the restaurant when the floor is moving (it’s also pretty expensive)
- Pre-bribe your child with something fun like a puzzle and ALL the snacks
- Blackout your cabin if it gets rough
- Avoid bunk beds for toddlers — I can’t actually imagine a single scenario in which this works out well for anyone
- Don’t watch Fast X. You deserve better
Would we take the Bilbao to Portsmouth ferry again?
Honestly? Maybe.
The crossing? Horrific.
The convenience? Immaculate.
The extra days of Spanish sun? Totally worth it.
So would we really do it again? Possibly. But next time, we’re bringing stronger meds, better movies, and some kind of inflatable nest for Little Rick.
Do you have any tips on what we could do different next time? Drop them in the comments… we are open to any and all advice!
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