This post is part of our NC500 road trip series – check them all out here!
We’d been itching to tackle the North Coast 500 (NC500) for around eight years. Back in our 9-to-5 days, it never quite worked out. Mainly because whenever we had precious holiday days, we usually opted for destinations where the sun was more than just a rumour. No offence, Scotland.
But this year, it finally came together. We packed up Frank – our long-suffering, much-loved, self-converted campervan – with enough winter gear to survive a small ice age and pointed him north.
We actually fell deeply in love with Scotland and spent 4.5 weeks there in total; this post zooms in on our 10-day NC500 road trip only. If you’re after a quick-hit highlights reel, you can find my top 10 hit list here – but this one’s for the story lovers. The full muddy-boots, windswept-hair, Hairy-Coos-on-the-side-of-the-road experience.
And if you’re wondering what this all cost us, check out our full NC500 budget breakdown.
What is the NC500, anyway?
The North Coast 500 is a 516-mile (830 km) circular route looping around the northern Highlands of Scotland, usually starting and ending in Inverness. Picture dramatic cliffs, towering mountains, winding single-track roads, and white-sand beaches you wouldn’t expect this far north.
It’s been called the Route 66 of Scotland… and I absolutely get it. The landscapes are every bit as iconic.
Unlike some driving routes, the NC500 isn’t a strict itinerary. It’s more of a framework. You can drive it clockwise or anti-clockwise (we chose the latter), take as long as you like, and build your own adventure with detours, beach stops, whisky distilleries, mountain hikes, or castle visits. Whether you’re wild camping, staying in boutique hotels, or pitching up at family-run campsites, there’s a version of this trip for everyone.
Clockwise or anti-clockwise? Here’s why we chose west last
For us, going anti-clockwise just made sense. We were already coming up the east coast after visiting family in Newcastle, and we’d heard whispers that the west coast views were the showstoppers – the kind of scenery that ruins you for normal landscapes forever.
So we decided to save the best for last. (And boy, are we glad we did!)
We spent 10 days on the route, and it felt spot on. That said, we were travelling with a toddler, so our pace was slower and our stops were flexible. On the other hand, if the weather had been kinder, we definitely would’ve spent longer on the beaches… But that’s part of the NC500 charm: it’s shaped partly by what you want to see, and partly by what the Highlands decide to throw at you!
So with maps marked and raincoats packed, here’s how our 10-day route unfolded…
Our 10-day NC500 itinerary (with a toddler in tow)
Day 1 – Inverness: books, buses & history
The NC500 loop officially kicks off in Inverness, so we started there. We parked at the park & ride – an absolute lifesaver when you’ve got a campervan and zero desire to struggle into parallel parking places or get stuck in one-way systems. For £10, we got all-day parking and could stay overnight. Scotland’s Overnight Stay Bays (OSBs) are a smart and welcome initiative, especially for vanlifers.
The bus stop was literally right there in the car park, so we hopped on board. For £6 (two adults, one toddler free), we were on our way into the city centre. First stop: Victorian Market – part food hall, part quirky little market. We managed to feed all three of us with a mix of tacos, sausage rolls and gluten-free fish and chips – so safe to say there were options for most tastes.
As a giant book nerd, my highlight was Leakey’s Bookshop, a second-hand treasure trove of paperback heaven (and hardbacks too, of course). It’s reverently quiet inside, like you’ve stumbled into some sacred bibliophile chapel, and they sell everything from travel and history to thrillers and classics. I spotted a few Harlan Coben and James Patterson titles I hadn’t yet read. Cue excited whispering.
We also popped into the Inverness Museum and Art Gallery (free but donation-based, love that) and learned a whole lot about Highland history, complete with interactive bits that kept Little Rick entertained. We’re not really huge museum lovers (gasp – I know, how heathen of us) but it was well worth a visit and we’d actually recommend it.
We rounded off the day with a wander along the river back to the park & ride, spotting a funfair in full swing. Inverness is a funny little mix of old-school charm and modern quirks, with cosy pubs and high street shops side-by-side. A perfect gentle start to the wild adventure that was to come.
Day 2 – Rosemarkie & Fairy Glen: coffee and waterfalls
The proper NC500 adventure began in Rosemarkie, where a beachside cafe served up strong coffee and excellent cake (essential fuel for the day ahead). Little Rick made full use of the play park next door – shout out to whoever thought of putting that there, you’re the real MVP… toddler parents KNOW.
Just around the corner, we found the car park for Fairy Glen waterfall. The walk to the falls is about 20–30 minutes through woodland which is at times a bit rocky and uneven, so pushchairs are a no-go. We used the toddler carrier for some of it and Little Rick walked the rest. Trainers were fine, but hiking boots would’ve been smarter.
The waterfall itself was pure magic – wild, peaceful, and apparently a top spot for fairy- and pixie-spotting. (Or, in our toddler’s case, “Formula 1 fairies,” because, of course, magical beings would drive tiny racing cars. Obviously.)
We overnighted at a local sailing club, where we really noticed the variety of NC500 accommodation styles – everything from pre-booked campsites to swish hotel spots, cosy B&Bs to completely winging it (hi, that’s us). Scotland’s setup for self-sufficient campers is brilliant, with loads of free, donation-based or low-cost options. We travelled in May/early June, and finding spots wasn’t a problem. The Park4Night app was our trusty sidekick for overnight stays.
Day 3 – Dornoch hot choc & a windy Hilton stop
Next stop, Dornoch. We parked up and wandered into town for hot chocolate at Cocoa Mountain, lured by signs boasting the best hot chocolate (they weren’t lying.) Dornoch itself was a cute little place, and we found a beach walk – until Little Rick’s radar locked onto a play park nearby, swiftly sidelining our plans.
It wasn’t until later that we realised we’d missed the Witches’ Stone, where the last alleged witch in Scotland was burned. History is… something else.
From there, we headed to Hilton for some van chores – water, toilet, the glamorous side of van life. But it wasn’t all admin. We parked right on the beach, where the Mermaid of the North statue keeps watch alongside some giant salmon sculptures. There was also a play park on the beach (seriously, the Highlands crushed it with the parks!), making this toddler heaven.
The wind was brutal, but the views were worth it. Frank the van got a much-needed recharge, and we soaked in the salty air before hunkering down for the night.
Day 4 – Cairn Liath broch & van life treasures in Helmsdale
Day 4 began with a false start. We tried Dunrobin Castle, but no van-friendly parking meant it was a no-go. Instead, we headed to Cairn Liath, a broch (ancient stone roundhouse – think prehistoric Airbnb). The parking is a roadside lay-by, and there’s a safer crossing point of the main road than we first realised (oops). The broch itself was fascinating and kind of wild to imagine as someone’s actual home. And as a bonus, you could see some of Dunrobin Castle from there… so, a win all-round!
From there, Helmsdale beckoned with a rare treasure for van lifers: free showers. We wandered the small town, hit a couple of pubs, and let Little Rick run wild in the open space.
Day 5 – Wick’s weather woes & Duncansby’s joys
Wick greeted us with a soggy grimace. The weather was dire, with wind and rain trying to out-miserable each other. We tried a short walk, but toddler tantrums and soaked socks sent us back into Frank for some downtime.
When the skies cleared slightly, we made a dash for Duncansby Head. The Duncansby Stacks were incredible – jagged rock pinnacles rising dramatically from the sea, with the Orkney Islands just visible on the horizon. There’s a walk from there to John O’Groats (we didn’t do it… but it’s there!).
That night we stayed near John O’Groats, where a local pub and hotel kindly lets campervans park overnight if you grab a bite to eat or drink. Nice touch.
Day 6 – John O’Groats, Dunnet Head & wild winds
John O’Groats! We’d done Land’s End the month before, so this felt like the epic sequel. Unlike the tourist frenzy of Cornwall, John O’Groats is refreshingly DIY – campervan bays, souvenir shops, a brewery, even a Christmas shop (because why not?).
We met a guy starting a two-month walk to Land’s End – absolute legend. I wonder how far he’s got now…
Afterwards, we hit Dunnet Head, the actual most northerly point of mainland Britain. A single-track road with passing places leads up to a car park (paid). And if you fancy it, there’s an ice cream van waiting there for you. The views were phenomenal, even if the wind was trying its hardest to blow us away. You can orca watch here when conditions are right – definitely one for next time.
In Thurso, we found a Lidl for supplies, and the town gave us the vibe we expected Wick to have. We found a great park for Little Rick and ended the day with a perfect evening at Castletown Beach, rainbows and all.
Day 7 – Melvich, Strathy & Tongue: a beachy kind of day
A day of beaches – if only the sun had been given the memo. Still, the white sands and clear waters were stunning, and with enough layers, we could definitely pretend we were in the Caribbean.
The weather may not have screamed “beach day,” but our hearts sure did.
Melvich Beach kicked things off – a single-track gravel road gets you there, and there’s free parking when you arrive. A dreamy walk through dunes opened onto soft golden sand and crashing waves. Just stunning. We raced the rain back to the van.
Strathy Beach was up next. Windy beyond reason, but the turquoise water was Caribbean-level pretty. Too rough for a toddler walk (we genuinely thought at least one of us was getting blown away), we retreated to the log cabin in the car park, where a wall of traveller notes warmed our hearts, if not our bones. Full of love, loss, proposals and poems, it reminded us why we love travel so much and how it can bring people together. We left our mark too.
We passed through Bettyhill (one for next time) and reached Tongue, where we stopped for drinks and board games at the village’s hotel bar. Met some lovely American tourists doing day trips from there – looked dreamy.
We finished the day at Ceannabeinne Beach, my favourite. A sheltered cove with soft sand and wild waves where we ran wild until Little Rick needed his bed. We parked overnight with a few other vans which gave spontaneous community vibes, the best kind.
Day 8 – Ceannabeinne, Smoo Caves & the road to Lochinver
Waking up at Ceannabeinne Beach felt like pure joy. We stumbled on a zip line that goes across the bay, run by Golden Eagles. No pre-booking, cash preferred, and zero signal – it was all part of the charm. It’s £17 a go, and honestly, the best money we spent! I went first… adrenaline rush city. Mr Rick followed, while Little Rick was furious he was too small to try (“when I’m three!” he keeps declaring).
After the adrenaline rush, we drove a short way to Smoo Cave. There is a small free car park, but we used a nearby paid one instead – and what a find. The landowner has created not only a safe place to park, but also added a small café and laundry service point, with plans for more. All this excitement before we even hit the caves themselves. The natural sea caves are walkable, and we enjoyed wandering inside – but there’s also a boat tour we’ll try next time.
The drive to Lochinver was honestly the best scenery I’ve ever seen – Kyle of Durness, Scourie, Kylesku Bridge, Loch Assynt – jaw-dropping views all the way. And yes, we saw Highland cows! Actual dream.
Lochinver itself was a sweet seaside village, perfect for letting Little Rick run wild at yet another play park and a lovely place to unwind.
Day 9 – Achmelvich Beach bliss & Ullapool wanders
We woke to pouring rain, then went on a rescue mission for some struggling campers (a story for another day!), before heading to Achmelvich Beach – only 10-15 minutes from Lochinver. A large paid car park welcomed us, and we walked the short distance to the beach.
And then: wow. Just wow. White sand, turquoise sea, curved bay – it honestly looked like Saint Lucia had wandered into Scotland by accident. Little Rick lived his best life in the rock pools while we just sat in awe. Absolute favourite beach of the trip. There’s a campsite right above it, and both Mr Rick and I agreed that with good weather, you could stay here for a week easy.
Another stunning drive (seriously, my camera roll is just road views right now!) brought us to Ullapool, where we wandered the harbour and reflected on just how much this trip was filling our souls.
Day 10 – Corrieshalloch Gorge & the NC500 finish line
After another gentle morning in Ullapool, we drove to Corrieshalloch Gorge. Parking costs £10 for vans unless you’re a National Trust member (£5 for cars). It’s a tourist-ready site with toilets, a cafe and motorhome facilities. There are a couple of well-marked walks – we took the easier route to the suspension bridge. It’s a beautiful walk, with waterfalls around every corner, though the path gets a little rocky at times (wear hiking boots and bring your toddler carrier – thank me later!). The bridge has a wow-factor view of the gorge below and has a limit of six people at a time, so you get a quiet moment to soak it all in (and/or get all your pics for the ‘gram!).
Normally, this is where the NC500 loop heads back to Inverness to complete the circle – but we took a little detour to the Isle of Skye instead (that’s a story for another blog). And with that, our NC500 adventure came to an end.
So… was it worth it?
OMG, yes. A thousand times yes. The NC500 gave us breathtaking views, wild history, and those quiet moments with our little family that made every mile magic. It was raw, windy, beautiful, sometimes frustrating – but always, always unforgettable.
I’m honestly still a little bit gutted it ended. But I’m so grateful for this life – the freedom, the family time, and the wild, rugged Highlands that stole our hearts.
Ready to plan your own NC500 trip?
I’ve got some handy extras to help you hit the road:
- NC500 budget breakdown: see exactly what we spent – and how you can save too
- NC500 packing list: what we took, what we loved, and what we should have taken!
- NC500 highlights hitlist: the must-see stops at a glance, no endless scrolling required
Bookmark them, pin them, send them to your travel buddy. Or just have a nose while dreaming about your future road trip. Absolutely no judgement here!
Happy planning – and if you find any new hidden gems, drop them in the comments. We’re always looking for a reason to go back…
Leave a comment